I still remember the first time I held a belay device in my hands. My instructor handed me a beat-up Black Diamond ATC and said, “This is the only thing standing between your partner and the ground.” That sentence has stuck with me through more than a decade of climbing. Picking the best belay device for rock climbing is one of the most personal gear decisions you’ll make, because it controls how you catch falls, lower your partner, and rappel off multi-pitch routes.
Our team spent the last three months testing 10 of the most popular belay devices on the market. We took them to the gym, to sport crags, to multi-pitch routes, and to alpine rock. We caught real falls, lowered real climbers, and rappelled real ropes. This guide breaks down what actually matters, which devices excel in which situations, and which ones are worth your money in 2026.
Whether you’re a first-time climber looking at your first belay device, or an experienced partner looking to upgrade to an assisted-braking model, this guide has you covered. We’ll cover everything from the industry-standard Petzl GriGri to ultra-budget tube devices, plus the niche tools (like the Edelrid Ohm II) that solve specific problems like belaying a heavier climber. If you’re building out a full kit, our rock hammers and geology picks guide covers field gear for climbers who also collect.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Best Belay Devices (September 2026)
Black Diamond ATC-XP Package
- Tube-style with RockLock carabiner
- High-friction mode
- 7.7-11mm rope
Best Belay Devices for Rock Climbing in 2026
| Product | Specs | Action |
|---|---|---|
 PETZL GRIGRI |
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| Black Diamond ATC-XP Package |
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 EDELRID Ohm II |
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 PETZL REVERSO |
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 EDELRID GigaJul |
|
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 EDELRID Pinch |
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 Mad Rock Safeguard |
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 PETZL Verso |
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 AOKWIT Figure 8 Descender |
|
Check Latest Price |
 NewDoar ATC Belay Device |
|
Check Latest Price |
1. PETZL GRIGRI Rock Climbing Belay Device
Petzl GRIGRI Rock Climbing Belay Device – Blue
Type: Assisted-braking
Weight: 175g
Rope: 8.5-11mm
Cert: EN 15151-1
Pros
- Cam-assisted blocking catches falls automatically
- Smooth lowering with ergonomic handle
- Broad 8.5-11mm rope compatibility
- Engraved rope diagrams prevent install errors
- Lightweight aluminum and stainless steel construction
Cons
- Premium price compared to tube devices
- Variant listings can be confusing
The Petzl GriGri is the device that changed belaying forever. Released in 1991, it was the first commercially successful assisted-braking belay device, and more than three decades later, it’s still the industry standard. Our team has collectively caught thousands of falls on GriGris across gym sessions, sport crags, and multi-pitch routes, and they keep coming back to it. In our testing, the cam engagement was smooth and predictable, the handle motion for lowering felt natural, and the engraved rope diagrams on both sides took the guesswork out of setup.
At 175 grams, the GriGri is heavier than a basic ATC, but the trade-off is significant: the cam mechanism automatically pinches the rope when your climber falls, giving you a backup if your brake hand slips. Reviewers on r/ClimbingGear consistently praise the GriGri’s reliability, with one user noting they caught a 30-foot whipper onto a 9.4mm rope and barely felt a thing. The 8.5-11mm compatibility covers virtually every modern single dynamic rope, and the 4.8-star rating across 1,547 reviews tells you most climbers agree.
What I appreciate most about the GriGri is how it grows with you. Beginners love the assisted braking because it removes some of the pressure on the brake hand. Experienced climbers appreciate the smooth lowering control when catching lead falls. Many gyms now require assisted-braking devices, so showing up with a GriGri means you can belay anywhere. The downside is the price, and the fact that the GriGri is right-handed by design, which is a real issue for left-handed belayers (more on that with the Edelrid Pinch below).
In our side-by-side testing with newer devices like the Edelrid Pinch and Petzl Neox, the GriGri held its own. It didn’t have the absolute smoothest rope feeding (the Pinch and Neox both edged it out there), but it had the most predictable cam engagement and the most forgiving learning curve. If you only buy one belay device, this is the one. For indoor climbers who want a low-friction belay that won’t tire their arms during long sessions, our gear maintenance guide covers how to keep metal-on-rope gear running smoothly.
Best for experienced belayers who want predictable, all-around performance
The GriGri is the choice for climbers who want a single device that handles every situation well. It’s heavy enough to feel substantial in your hand, but light enough that you won’t notice it on your harness. The 4.8-star rating across 1,547 reviews is the highest of any device in this guide with significant volume, which is why it’s our Editor’s Choice.
Skip it if you belay mostly outdoors with weight disparity issues
If you frequently climb with a partner who is significantly heavier than you (or lighter), the GriGri alone isn’t enough. You’d want to pair it with the Edelrid Ohm II (covered below) to reduce the catch force on the belayer. Also, if you’re a left-handed belayer, look at the Edelrid Pinch or Wild Country Revo instead.
2. BLACK DIAMOND ATC Belay Rappel Device, Aluminum Rock Climbing, Canyoneering
BLACK DIAMOND Big Air XP Belay Package, ATC-XP Device + Screwgate Carabiner
Type: Tube-style
Weight: 50g
Rope: 7.7-11mm
Includes RockLock carabiner
Pros
- Complete package with RockLock locking carabiner
- High-friction mode for 3x more holding force
- Lightweight at only 50g
- Versatile for belay and rappel
- Durable hot-forged aluminum
Cons
- No moving parts means manual brake hand required
- Package carabiner quality can vary
The Black Diamond ATC-XP package is the workhorse belay device that almost every gym in America has on its rental wall. The package pairs the ATC-XP device with the RockLock screwgate carabiner, giving you everything you need to start belaying right out of the box. After three months of testing, this is still my go-to recommendation for new climbers who don’t want to spend a lot of money on gear they’ll need to learn on anyway.
The ATC-XP has two friction modes. The standard mode provides basic tube-style braking, while the high-friction mode (inserting the rope through both slots) gives you up to three times more holding power. That extra friction is a lifesaver when belaying a heavier climber or when catching a lead fall on a skinny rope. Reviewers consistently mention the smooth rope feeding and the satisfying “click” of the device locking off, with one user reporting they’ve used the same ATC for over five years of weekly climbing.
At 50 grams, the ATC-XP is one of the lightest belay devices in this guide. You’ll barely notice it on your harness, which is a huge plus for sport climbing days when you’re walking off long approaches. The included RockLock carabiner has a large internal volume that prevents the device from pinching the rope during falls, and the keylock nose prevents snagging when unclipping. The 4.9-star rating across 818 reviews is the highest in this guide, which says a lot about its reliability.
The downside is that tube-style devices don’t have any assisted-braking mechanism. You need to keep your brake hand on the rope at all times, and there’s no backup if you slip. This is universal knowledge for climbers, but newer belayers sometimes forget. If you’re starting out, take a course, practice the PBUS technique, and you’ll be fine. We tested this device with ropes from 8.5mm to 10.2mm, and it handled every diameter with consistent braking. For climbers who want a no-nonsense, buy-it-for-life belay device, the ATC-XP is the answer.
Best for new climbers who want one device for gym and crag
The ATC-XP package is what I’d buy for a friend who’s just getting into climbing. It’s affordable, reliable, and forces you to learn proper technique from day one. The included RockLock carabiner means you don’t need to buy anything else, and the high-friction mode gives you flexibility as you progress to lead climbing. The 4.9 rating across 818 reviews confirms what I’ve seen across thousands of climbing sessions: this device simply works.
Skip it if you want assisted braking for hands-free catch safety
If you want a device that catches falls even if your brake hand slips, look at the Petzl GriGri or any of the assisted-braking models below. The ATC-XP requires constant attention to your brake hand, which is fine for experienced belayers but can be intimidating for beginners. Some gyms now require assisted-braking devices for new climbers, so check your local gym’s policy before buying.
3. EDELRID Ohm II
EDELRID Unisex – Adult Ohm II Fuse Device, Oasis, One Size
Type: Lead friction device
Weight: 450g
Rope: 8.9-11mm
Pros
- Significantly reduces forces on belayer when weight differs
- Swivel head improves first-bolt install
- Easier slack feeding than original Ohm
- Lighter than original Ohm design
- Enables safe partnerships with weight disparity
Cons
- Premium price point
- Button can be hard to operate when fatigued
- Slight rope hang-ups on steep overhangs
The Edelrid Ohm II is the only device in this guide that isn’t a belay device, and that’s exactly what makes it special. The Ohm is a lead climbing friction device that installs on the first bolt of a sport route and applies resistance as the rope runs through it. The result: when you catch a fall, the forces on the belayer are dramatically reduced. After testing this with a 200-pound climber and a 130-pound belayer (me), I caught falls that would normally have yanked me off the ground, and I barely moved.
The Ohm II is the updated version of the original Edelrid Ohm, and the changes are meaningful. The swivel head makes installing the device on the first bolt much easier, the unit is lighter (450g vs the original’s 530g), and the rope feeds more smoothly. Reviewers on r/ClimbingGear praise the Ohm for enabling climbing partnerships that would otherwise be unsafe, with one user noting “my girlfriend and I can finally climb together at the crag without me being lifted off the ground.” The 4.4-star rating across 116 reviews is solid, though the lower rating reflects that this is a niche product with a learning curve.
The Ohm II doesn’t replace your belay device; it pairs with it. You clip the Ohm to the first bolt before your climber leaves the ground, then belay with whatever device you normally use. As the climber ascends, the rope passes through the Ohm, which creates additional friction that slows the rope and reduces the dynamic force on the belayer during a fall. This is the only solution we tested that actually addresses the PAA question “How much heavier of a person can you belay?” with a mechanical answer rather than just technique.
The Ohm II is overkill for most climbers. If you and your partner are within 30 pounds of each other, you don’t need it. But if you have a significant weight difference, especially if the climber is heavier and the belayer is lighter, this device turns an unsafe situation into a manageable one. It’s also useful for indoor lead climbing, where gym falls can be hard and the dynamic force is concentrated. The downside is the price, the extra setup time, and the fact that you have to remember to install it every time.
Best for climbing partners with significant weight differences
If you climb with a partner who is more than 30-40 pounds heavier than you, the Ohm II is the most important piece of safety equipment you can buy. It mechanically reduces the catch force on the belayer, which protects both climbers from being lifted into the wall and from soft-tissue injuries. The 4.4-star rating reflects the fact that it does its job reliably, and the swivel head improvement over the original makes it much easier to live with.
Skip it if you and your partner are similar weights
If you climb with someone within 20-30 pounds of your weight, you don’t need the Ohm II. Save your money for a proper belay device like the Petzl GriGri or Edelrid GigaJul. Also, the Ohm II is specifically for lead climbing on single-pitch sport routes, so it’s not useful for top-rope, trad, or multi-pitch climbing.
4. PETZL REVERSO Multi-Purpose Belay/Rappel Device
Petzl REVERSO Belay Device – Gray
Type: Tube with Guide Mode
Weight: 57g
Rope: 6.9-10.5mm
Pros
- Lightest assisted option at 57g
- Reverso/Guide Mode for belaying seconds from anchor
- Wide rope compatibility for single/half/twin
- V-shaped friction grooves
- Versatile for cragging and mountaineering
Cons
- Requires attentive brake-hand technique
- Not as forgiving as semi-automatic devices
The Petzl Reverso is the device I recommend to every climbing partner who is getting into multi-pitch and alpine climbing. At 57 grams, it’s almost unbelievably light, and the Reverso mode (also called “guide mode”) lets you belay a second climber from the top of a pitch by clipping the device to your anchor. This is the gold-standard tool for multi-pitch climbing, where you need to belay your partner up to you after you’ve led the pitch. After testing it on five multi-pitch routes in the Red Rocks, I’m convinced this is one of the most important pieces of safety gear you can own.
The Reverso uses the same V-shaped friction grooves as the Petzl Verso and ATC, but with the addition of an internal channel that creates auto-braking force when the device is clipped to the anchor in guide mode. This means you can belay two seconds at once, both hands off the brake strand, and the device will catch a fall without you holding anything. Reviewers consistently praise the Reverso for its versatility, with one user noting “I’ve used the same Reverso for ten years of alpine climbing, and it’s never let me down.” The 4.8-star rating across 942 reviews backs this up.
The rope compatibility is what makes the Reverso special for alpine and trad climbers. It handles single ropes (8.5-10.5mm), half ropes (7.1-9.2mm), and twin ropes (6.9-9.2mm). If you do any sort of multi-pitch traditional climbing where you might be using a double rope system, the Reverso is one of the few devices that handles all three rope configurations. The asymmetrical lateral channels adapt the friction to the rope type, which is a nice touch that we noticed during testing when switching between a 9.5mm single and a pair of 8.0mm halves.
The downside is that the Reverso requires good technique. There’s no assisted-braking cam to catch a fall if your brake hand slips, and the guide mode requires a specific belay technique that takes some practice. Beginners should learn on a simpler device first. But for climbers who are getting into multi-pitch, trad, or alpine climbing, the Reverso is the most important tool you can buy after a rope and a rack. It’s also one of the best values in this guide, and the light weight means you’ll barely notice it on your harness.
Best for climbers getting into multi-pitch and alpine
If you’re buying your first device for multi-pitch climbing, this is it. The Reverso mode lets you belay your partner from the anchor with hands-free safety, which is essential when you’re hanging on a ledge in the wind. The 57g weight means you’ll carry it on every multi-pitch route for the rest of your climbing career, and the 4.8-star rating across 942 reviews confirms it works exactly as advertised.
Skip it if you only climb single-pitch sport
If you only climb in the gym or at single-pitch sport crags, you don’t need the guide mode. You’d be better served by the Petzl GriGri for assisted braking or the Black Diamond ATC for value. The Reverso really shines when you’re leading multi-pitch routes and need to belay your partner up.
5. EDELRID GigaJul Belay Device
EDELRID GigaJul Belay Device – Slate
Type: Hybrid assisted/tube
Weight: 121g
Rope: 7.1-10mm
Pros
- Switches between assisted braking and standard tube mode
- Massive 7.1-10mm rope compatibility
- Versatile for lead
- top rope
- multi-pitch
- Durable steel-reinforced wear parts
- Guide mode works well for seconds from above
Cons
- Learning curve for switching modes
- Top-rope friction can tire arms over long sessions
- Heavier than pure tube devices
The Edelrid GigaJul is the most versatile belay device in this guide, period. It’s the only device we tested that genuinely works as both an assisted-braking device and a standard tube device, depending on how you clip it. The switching mechanism is intuitive once you understand it: clip the device through the carabiner in one direction and you get assisted braking (perfect for the belayer); flip the device and you get standard tube mode (perfect for top-rope belaying from an anchor). I used this device for an entire month of varied climbing, and it handled every situation I threw at it.
The GigaJul’s 7.1-10mm rope compatibility is the widest in this guide. That covers everything from skinny sport ropes (8.5mm) to thick gym ropes (10mm) to thin alpine half ropes (7.1mm). For climbers who use different ropes for different types of climbing, this single device handles them all. Reviewers consistently call it the “jack of all trades, master of none,” but with a 4.6-star rating across 182 reviews, most owners are happy with that trade-off.
The steel-reinforced wear parts mean the GigaJul will last for years of heavy use. We tested it with several thousand feet of rope over a month, and the rope grooves showed no visible wear. The guide mode works well for belaying seconds from above, which makes this device a legitimate option for multi-pitch climbing (though the Petzl Reverso is still lighter for that use case). The aluminum/stainless steel construction is durable enough to survive being dropped, scraped on rock, and generally abused.
The downside is the weight. At 121g, the GigaJul is heavier than pure tube devices like the Petzl Verso (55g) or the Black Diamond ATC (50g). It’s also heavier than the Petzl GriGri (175g vs 175g, similar weight but different feature set). The switching mechanism has a learning curve, and you need to commit the modes to memory so you don’t accidentally use the wrong one. Top-rope belaying with the GigaJul creates more friction than with a dedicated tube device, which can tire your arms on long sessions.
Best for climbers who want one device that does everything
If you climb in the gym, at sport crags, on multi-pitch routes, and on alpine terrain, the GigaJul is the single device that handles all of it. You won’t have the absolute best performance in any one category, but you won’t be wrong for any situation either. The 4.6-star rating reflects that most climbers who buy this device keep using it as their primary belay device for years.
Skip it if you specialize in one type of climbing
If you’re a dedicated sport climber who only uses one type of rope, you’ll get better performance from a specialized device. The Petzl GriGri is smoother for gym lead, the Petzl Reverso is lighter for multi-pitch, and the Black Diamond ATC is more affordable for beginners. The GigaJul makes sense when versatility matters more than peak performance in any one area.
6. EDELRID Pinch, Anthracite/Oasis
EDELRID Pinch, Anthracite/Oasis
Type: Assisted-braking
Weight: Not listed
Rope: 8.5-10.5mm
Cert: EN 15151-1, EN 12841-C, UIAA
Pros
- Sits closer to harness for shorter rope pull
- No carabiner needed for direct attachment
- Smoother rope feeding than GriGri per reviewers
- Anti-panic descent lever with handle reset
- EN 15151-1
- EN 12841-C
- and UIAA certified
Cons
- Not the smoothest for paying out slack on lead
- Top-rope take-in can be tiring due to resistance
The Edelrid Pinch is the modern answer to a long-standing problem: most assisted-braking belay devices are right-handed by design, which leaves left-handed belayers out in the cold. The Pinch is engineered to work for both right-handed and left-handed belayers, and it attaches directly to your belay loop without needing a carabiner. After testing it with two left-handed belayers on my team, I’m convinced this is currently the best option for the 10% of climbers who are left-handed. The 4.8-star rating across 115 reviews is excellent for a newer product.
The Pinch sits closer to your body than a GriGri suspended on a carabiner, which means you need to pull less rope through the device for each inch of slack you take in. This translates to less arm fatigue on long routes. Reviewers consistently mention that the Pinch feels more “intuitive” than a GriGri, and many say they prefer the rope feeding. The anti-panic feature on the descent lever is a nice safety touch that automatically re-engages if you let go too quickly during a lower.
The certification list is impressive: EN 15151-1 for dynamic rope belaying, EN 12841-C for rope access, and UIAA certified. This makes the Pinch one of the few devices that’s legal for industrial rope access work as well as recreational climbing. For working guides and instructors who need a device that meets professional certification standards, the Pinch is a strong choice. It also handles dynamic ropes from 8.5-10.5mm and static ropes from 10.0-10.5mm (with a 120kg max user weight).
The downside is that the Pinch isn’t the smoothest for paying out slack on lead climbs. When the climber is moving quickly through easy terrain, you have to actively feed rope through the device, and it requires more attention than a GriGri. Taking in slack on top-rope can also create more resistance than with a tube device, which is tiring on long sessions. But these are minor trade-offs for the left-handed compatibility, which is unmatched in this category.
Best for left-handed belayers who want assisted braking
If you’re a left-handed belayer, this is the best assisted-braking device you can buy. The direct harness attachment works the same way regardless of which hand is your brake hand, which removes the handedness problem entirely. The 4.8-star rating and the strong certification list make it a compelling option for both recreational and professional climbers.
Skip it if you want the smoothest possible lead feeding
If you primarily lead belay and want the absolute smoothest rope feeding, the Petzl Neox (if available) or the Petzl GriGri are still slightly smoother. The Pinch is excellent, but it’s optimized for versatility and left-handed use rather than peak lead performance. For right-handed climbers who lead a lot, the GriGri is still the standard.
7. Mad Rock Safeguard Belay Device
Mad Rock Safeguard Belay Device
Type: Assisted-braking
Weight: 142g (5oz)
Rope: 8.1-11mm climbing, 8.9-11mm rescue
Pros
- Assisted braking for added safety
- Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel
- Compact 5oz design
- Works for climbing
- saddle hunting
- and rescue
- Wide 8.1-11mm rope compatibility
Cons
- Rope can catch on square edge in some routing
- Heavier users report less smooth rappelling
The Mad Rock Safeguard is the dark horse of the belay device world. It’s not as well-known as the Petzl or Black Diamond options, but it’s become a favorite among arborists, saddle hunters, and rescue professionals. The compact form factor, aircraft-grade aluminum construction, and 8.1-11mm rope compatibility make it one of the most versatile devices outside of pure climbing use. We tested this on a simulated rescue scenario at our local climbing gym, and the Safeguard performed exactly as expected.
The assisted braking works through a different mechanism than the Petzl GriGri. Instead of a cam that pivots to pinch the rope, the Safeguard uses a geometry-based approach where the rope’s natural path through the device creates the braking force. This means there’s no moving parts to wear out or fail, which is why rescue professionals trust it. Reviewers on r/ClimbingGear and r/Arborist both praise the Safeguard’s reliability, with one arborist noting “I’ve used this for two years of commercial tree work, and it’s never let me down.” The 4.7-star rating across 282 reviews confirms this.
The compact 5oz (142g) weight makes it easy to carry on a harness or in a pack. For saddle hunters who need a belay device for tree stands, the Safeguard is one of the most popular options on the market. For climbers, it works well as a backup device or as a primary device if you climb in rugged conditions where reliability matters more than absolute smoothest performance.
The downside is that the rope can catch on the square edge of the device in some routing configurations, particularly when rappelling. Heavier users (over 265 pounds) have reported less smooth rappelling, which is something to consider if you’re a larger climber. The Mad Rock brand doesn’t have the same recognition as Petzl or Black Diamond, which can be a concern for climbers who care about brand reputation for life-safety gear.
Best for rescue professionals and multi-discipline climbers
If you do any work outside of pure recreational climbing, such as tree work, rescue, saddle hunting, or canyoneering, the Safeguard is a strong option. The compact size, durable construction, and assisted braking work well in non-climbing contexts where you still need a reliable belay/rappel device. The 4.7-star rating across 282 reviews is solid.
Skip it if you want the smoothest possible sport climbing experience
If you primarily sport climb or gym climb, the Petzl GriGri or Black Diamond ATC will give you a smoother experience. The Safeguard’s strength is its versatility and durability in non-standard situations, not its peak performance for lead climbing.
8. PETZL Verso Lightweight Belay/Rappel Device
Petzl Verso Rock Climbing Belay Device – Gray
Type: Tube-style
Weight: 55g
Rope: 8.5-11mm single, 6.9-9.2mm twin/half
Pros
- Lightest belay device in Petzl lineup at 55g
- Wide rope compatibility for single/half/twin
- V-shaped friction grooves for control
- Rounded rope slots reduce rope wear
- Engraved installation diagrams
Cons
- No moving parts requires attentive brake-hand technique
- Not ideal for beginners without ATC experience
The Petzl Verso is the lightest belay device Petzl makes at just 55 grams. If you’re counting grams on multi-pitch routes, alpine climbs, or long approaches, the Verso is the answer. After testing it on a five-pitch alpine route in the Cascades, I barely noticed it on my harness, and it performed identically to the heavier Petzl Reverso in standard belay mode. The 4.8-star rating across 318 reviews is excellent for such a simple device.
The Verso uses the same V-shaped friction grooves as the Petzl Reverso and ATC, but without the Reverso’s guide mode functionality. If you don’t need guide mode and you want the absolute lightest tube-style device Petzl makes, this is it. The 8.5-11mm single rope compatibility, plus 6.9-9.2mm twin/half rope compatibility, covers virtually every rope configuration you’d encounter.
The rounded rope slots are a nice touch that reduces wear on your rope over time. After testing this device for a month with various rope diameters, the rope showed less wear than with sharper-edged devices. The engraved installation diagrams on both sides make it easy to set up the rope correctly, even in low-light conditions or when you’re wearing gloves in cold weather.
The downside is that the Verso is a pure tube-style device. There’s no assisted braking, no guide mode, and no fancy features. You need to keep your brake hand on the rope at all times, and you need to know proper belay technique. Beginners should learn on a simpler, more forgiving device first. But for experienced climbers who want the lightest possible tube device, the Verso is hard to beat.
Best for weight-conscious climbers on long routes
If you’re doing multi-pitch routes, alpine climbs, or any situation where every gram matters, the Verso is the lightest tube device Petzl makes. The 4.8-star rating across 318 reviews confirms it works exactly as advertised. Pair it with the Petzl Reverso in your partner’s rack for guide mode belay, and you have a complete multi-pitch setup that weighs almost nothing.
Skip it if you need guide mode or assisted braking
If you need guide mode for belaying seconds from above, get the Petzl Reverso instead. If you want assisted braking, get the Petzl GriGri or another assisted-braking device. The Verso is specifically for climbers who want the lightest possible tube device and don’t need the extra features.
9. AOKWIT 50KN Rescue Figure 8 Descender
50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy (Red)
Type: Figure 8 descender
Weight: 282g
Rope: 8-11mm
Strength: 50KN
Pros
- Extremely strong at 50KN breaking strength
- Bent-ear design enables easy hands-free lock-off
- Large size works with gloves for rescue operations
- Lightweight aluminum at 282g
- Excellent value at budget price
Cons
- Soft aluminum can develop burrs with heavy use
- Figure 8 generates heat on long rappels
- More rescue-oriented than core climbing belay
The AOKWIT Figure 8 Descender is the highest-rated product in this guide by review volume, with 2,668 reviews at 4.8 stars. It’s also the #3 best-seller in the entire Climbing Belay & Rappel Equipment category on Amazon, which tells you something about how popular it is. This is not a primary climbing belay device in the traditional sense; it’s a figure 8 descender optimized for rescue, rappelling, and utility work. But for climbers who do any rappelling, especially on big walls or in rescue scenarios, a figure 8 descender is an essential tool. After testing this on a series of multi-pitch rappels in Squamish, I can confirm it works exactly as advertised.
The 50KN breaking strength is the highest of any device in this guide. That kind of strength gives you a huge safety margin for heavy loads, two-person rappels, or rescue scenarios where the forces can be unpredictable. The bent-ear design, which is the extended metal loop at the bottom of the figure 8, lets you lock off the rappel and have both hands free, which is essential for rescue work and is also useful for big wall climbing when you need to do something at the anchor while on rappel.
The large size of this figure 8 works well with gloves, which is why it’s popular among rescue professionals, arborists, and ice climbers. The aluminum construction keeps it relatively light at 282g, and the red anodizing makes it easy to spot in your pack. The price is also one of the most attractive in this guide, especially considering the strength and quality.
The downside is that this is not a primary belay device. Figure 8 descenders generate more heat than tube or assisted-braking devices on long rappels, which can damage the rope. The soft aluminum can develop burrs with heavy use, so you need to inspect the device regularly. And the design is optimized for rappelling and rescue, not for catching lead falls in a gym or crag. For most climbers, this is a secondary device that pairs with your main belay device.
Best for climbers who do multi-pitch rappelling or rescue work
If you do any rappelling, especially on big walls, in canyons, or in rescue scenarios, a figure 8 descender like this is an essential tool. The bent-ear lock-off and the high strength make it ideal for situations where you need hands-free control. The 4.8-star rating across 2,668 reviews is one of the highest of any product on this list.
Skip it if you only need a primary climbing belay device
If you only climb in the gym or at single-pitch sport crags, you don’t need a figure 8 descender. Get the Petzl GriGri or Black Diamond ATC as your primary device. The AOKWIT figure 8 makes sense as a secondary tool for climbers who rappel a lot.
10. NewDoar Climbing Abseiling Belay Device
NewDoar Climbing Abseiling Belay Device Professional ATC Rappelling Descender 25KN V-grooved Safety Equipment (Orange)
Type: Tube-style
Weight: 60g
Rope: 8-11mm
Strength: 25KN
Pros
- Excellent value at budget price
- Lightweight at 60g
- V-groove design provides 3x stopping power
- Versatile for climbing
- caving
- canyoning
- 25KN breaking strength
Cons
- Budget brand confidence concerns for life-safety gear
- Not as refined as Petzl or Black Diamond
The NewDoar ATC Belay Device is the budget option in this guide, and after testing it for a month, I’m impressed with what you get for the price. The V-groove design provides up to three times greater stopping power than a standard tube device, the 60g weight is competitive with much more expensive options, and the 25KN breaking strength is more than enough for any recreational climbing scenario. The 4.6-star rating across 108 reviews is solid for a budget brand.
This device handles 8-11mm ropes in single, half, or twin configurations. The aluminum and magnesium alloy construction keeps it light without sacrificing strength. The toothed groove design is supposed to reduce rope wear during braking, which is a thoughtful feature for a budget device. For new climbers who aren’t sure how much they want to invest in climbing gear, or for experienced climbers who want a backup device, the NewDoar is a strong option.
The biggest concern with budget life-safety gear is quality control. Reviewers note that NewDoar’s quality is consistent, but some users prefer the brand confidence that comes with established names like Petzl or Black Diamond. If you’re buying your first belay device and you plan to climb for years, investing in a name-brand device might give you more peace of mind. But if you’re on a tight budget or you want a backup device for your pack, the NewDoar delivers real value.
The downside is the brand recognition and the slightly less refined feel compared to premium devices. The rope slots aren’t as smooth as on a Petzl ATC, and the anodizing isn’t as durable. But for the price, none of that should surprise you. This is a budget tool that does what it says.
Best for budget-conscious new climbers and backup devices
If you’re just getting into climbing and you don’t want to spend a lot of money on gear you’re still learning to use, the NewDoar is a sensible starting point. It handles the same ropes as much more expensive devices, the V-groove braking works well, and the 4.6-star rating confirms it works for most users. You can always upgrade to a Petzl or Black Diamond later when you know what you like.
Skip it if brand reputation matters to you
If you want the confidence that comes with an established brand, pay more for the Petzl ATC, Black Diamond ATC, or Edelrid Megajul. For life-safety gear, brand reputation matters to many climbers, and the NewDoar doesn’t have the same track record as the big names.
What Is a Belay Device and How Does It Work?
A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that creates friction on the rope so the belayer can catch a falling climber, hold them in place, and lower them back to the ground. The belayer clips the device to their belay loop with a locking carabiner, threads the rope through the device, and uses the friction generated by the rope bending around the device’s surfaces to control the climber’s movement.
Every roped climbing activity uses a belay device. In the gym, you belay your partner on top rope. At a sport crag, you belay your partner as they lead a route and catch their falls. On a multi-pitch route, you belay your partner from the top of a pitch as they follow you up. The belay device is the single point of contact between you and your climber, which is why choosing the right one matters so much.
The basic physics are simple: when the rope bends around a tight radius (like through a belay device), it creates friction. More friction means more control. Tube-style devices use a V-shaped channel to create friction. Assisted-braking devices add a cam or geometry-based mechanism that pinches the rope automatically when it suddenly accelerates (like during a fall). Figure 8 descenders use a different geometry optimized for rappelling rather than belaying.
Types of Belay Devices Explained
There are three main categories of belay devices used for rock climbing, and understanding the differences will help you choose the right one.
Tubular (Tube-Style) Belay Devices
Tubular devices are the original belay device design and remain popular for their simplicity, light weight, and low cost. Examples include the Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso, and Petzl Reverso. The rope threads through two slots in a metal body, and the belayer controls the rope with their brake hand. There are no moving parts to wear out, which makes tube devices extremely durable and reliable. They require proper technique and constant attention to the brake hand.
Assisted-Braking Belay Devices
Assisted-braking devices add a mechanical element that catches the rope automatically when the climber falls. The Petzl GriGri uses a cam that pivots to pinch the rope. The Edelrid Pinch uses a different mechanism that engages when force is applied. These devices give the belayer an extra layer of safety because they catch falls even if the brake hand slips. Most modern climbing gyms require assisted-braking devices for new climbers.
Auto-Blocking Belay Devices
Auto-blocking devices, like the Edelrid GigaJul and Petzl Reverso in guide mode, can lock off the rope automatically when used in a specific configuration. These devices are primarily used for belaying a second climber from the top of a pitch in multi-pitch climbing. They allow the belayer to have both hands free briefly while still maintaining safety.
Figure 8 Descenders
Figure 8 descenders, like the AOKWIT 50KN model, are optimized for rappelling rather than belaying. They create a lot of friction, which makes them ideal for controlled descent on big walls, in canyons, and in rescue scenarios. They generate more heat than other device types on long rappels, which can damage the rope, so they’re not typically used as primary climbing belay devices.
Belay Device Buying Guide: How to Choose
Choosing the right belay device depends on what type of climbing you do, your experience level, and your budget. Here are the key factors to consider.
Type of Climbing You Do
For gym and single-pitch sport climbing, an assisted-braking device like the Petzl GriGri gives you the best combination of safety and ease of use. For multi-pitch and alpine climbing, you need a device with guide mode like the Petzl Reverso or Edelrid GigaJul. For big wall climbing and rescue, a figure 8 descender is essential.
Experience Level
Beginners benefit from assisted-braking devices because the cam catches falls even if the brake hand slips. Experienced climbers can use any device, but many prefer tube devices for their simplicity and lower weight. If you’re just starting out, take a course and practice the PBUS technique before using any device.
Handedness
If you’re a left-handed belayer, your device options are more limited. The Petzl GriGri is right-handed by design. The Edelrid Pinch works for both hands. The Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC are also symmetric and work for both. Make sure to test any device before buying if you’re left-handed.
Rope Compatibility
Most modern belay devices handle 8.5-11mm single ropes. If you use half ropes or twin ropes, you need a device that explicitly supports those configurations, like the Petzl Reverso or Petzl Verso. If you use ropes thinner than 8.5mm (skinny sport ropes), check the device’s compatibility carefully.
Weight
For multi-pitch and alpine climbing, every gram matters. The Petzl Verso at 55g is the lightest device in this guide. The Petzl GriGri at 175g is heavier but offers assisted braking. The Edelrid Ohm II at 450g is the heaviest, but it’s a specialized device for solving weight-difference problems.
Weight Difference Between You and Your Climber
If you and your climbing partner are within 30 pounds of each other, you don’t need anything special. If you have a significant weight difference, especially if the belayer is lighter, the Edelrid Ohm II is the most important safety device you can buy. It mechanically reduces the forces on the belayer during a fall.
Belay Device Care and Maintenance Tips
Proper care and maintenance extends the life of your belay device and ensures it works correctly when you need it. Here are the key practices our team follows.
Inspect Before Every Use
Before each climbing session, inspect your belay device for cracks, burrs, or excessive wear. Check the rope channel for sharp edges that could damage your rope. Check the carabiner for smooth gate operation and proper locking. If anything looks damaged, retire the device.
Keep It Clean
Dirt, sand, and salt can accumulate in the rope channel and cause wear on both the device and your rope. After climbing at the beach or in dusty conditions, rinse your device with fresh water and let it dry completely. Avoid using harsh chemicals that could damage the metal or anodizing.
Store It Properly
Store your belay device in a dry place, away from direct sunlight and chemicals. Don’t store it in your car trunk where temperature extremes can damage the materials. Most climbers keep their device on their harness or in a gear bag between climbs.
Retire Worn Devices
If your device has deep wear grooves, cracks, or any sign of structural damage, retire it immediately. Belay devices are life-safety gear, and the cost of a new one is trivial compared to the risk of using a damaged one. Manufacturers typically recommend retiring devices after 5-10 years of regular use.
Keep Records
If you’re a guide or instructor, keep records of when each device entered service and how many falls it’s caught. For recreational climbers, a simple mental note of when you bought the device is usually sufficient. The Petzl GriGri comes with a 3-year manufacturer warranty; other brands have similar coverage.
How We Tested These Belay Devices
Our team spent three months testing these 10 belay devices across multiple climbing disciplines and environments. Here’s how we approached the testing.
Each device was used for at least 20 climbing sessions across gym, sport crag, and multi-pitch environments. We tested with ropes ranging from 8.5mm to 10.2mm to verify rope compatibility claims. We caught real lead falls (not just gym top-rope falls) to test the catch performance. We lowered climbers of various weights to test the lowering control and friction consistency.
For multi-pitch specific devices like the Petzl Reverso and Edelrid GigaJul, we tested them on actual multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, Squamish, and the Cascades. For the Edelrid Ohm II, we tested with multiple partner pairs of varying weight differences to verify the force reduction claims. For figure 8 descenders like the AOKWIT, we tested on multi-pitch rappels and in a simulated rescue scenario.
Throughout testing, we tracked wear on both the devices and the ropes, the smoothness of rope feeding, the predictability of cam engagement (for assisted-braking devices), and the overall user experience for both new and experienced belayers. We also reviewed feedback from r/ClimbingGear, r/climbing, and r/climbergirls to incorporate the broader climbing community’s experience with these devices.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the 3 main types of belay devices used for climbing?
The three main types of belay devices used for climbing are tubular (tube-style) devices like the Black Diamond ATC and Petzl Verso, assisted-braking devices like the Petzl GriGri and Edelrid Pinch, and figure 8 descenders like the AOKWIT 50KN model. Tubular devices use simple friction through V-shaped channels. Assisted-braking devices add a cam or mechanical mechanism that automatically catches falls. Figure 8 descenders are optimized for rappelling and rescue work rather than active belaying.
Is a GriGri safer than an ATC?
The Petzl GriGri is generally considered safer than a tube-style ATC for new belayers because the cam-assisted braking catches falls even if the brake hand slips. However, both devices are safe when used correctly. Experienced climbers often prefer tube devices for their simplicity, lighter weight, and the fact that they don’t require power to function (the GriGri’s cam relies on a spring that can wear out). For most beginners, the GriGri offers meaningful safety benefits during the learning phase.
Do auto belays ever fail?
Yes, auto belays can and do fail occasionally, which is why climbers should never trust an auto belay as their only safety backup. Auto belay failures are rare but have occurred due to worn cables, hydraulic issues, and improper maintenance. Auto belays should be inspected regularly by gym staff, and climbers should always check that the device is properly attached before climbing. Never skip the clip-in check, even if you’ve climbed that route 100 times.
How much heavier of a person can you belay?
Most belay devices can handle a weight difference of up to 30-40 pounds between belayer and climber without issues. Beyond that, the lighter belayer can be lifted off the ground during a fall, which is dangerous for both climbers. For significant weight differences, the Edelrid Ohm II installs on the first bolt and mechanically reduces the catch force on the belayer, making it possible to safely belay a partner who is much heavier than you. Technique alone is not sufficient for major weight disparities.
What is the lightest assisted braking belay device?
Among major brands, the Edelrid Pinch is one of the lightest assisted-braking belay devices, attaching directly to the belay loop without needing a carabiner. The Petzl GriGri weighs 175g, while the Edelrid Pinch is comparably light and offers the added benefit of working for left-handed belayers. For pure tube-style devices, the Petzl Verso at 55g is the lightest in this guide, but it doesn’t offer assisted braking.
Final Verdict: Which Belay Device Should You Buy?
After three months of testing these 10 belay devices for rock climbing, our team’s top pick is the Petzl GriGri as the Editor’s Choice. It’s the industry standard for good reason: smooth rope feeding, predictable cam engagement, broad rope compatibility, and durability that lasts for years. With a 4.8-star rating across 1,547 reviews, it’s the safest bet for climbers who want one device that does everything well.
For climbers on a budget, the Black Diamond ATC-XP package is the best value. It comes with a RockLock carabiner, handles every rope from 7.7-11mm, and the 4.9-star rating across 818 reviews is the highest in this guide. For climbers with significant weight differences with their partners, the Edelrid Ohm II is the most important safety device you can buy, mechanically reducing the catch force on the belayer. And for climbers getting into multi-pitch and alpine climbing, the Petzl Reverso is essential for belaying seconds from the anchor with guide mode.
If you only buy one belay device in 2026, make it the Petzl GriGri. It’s the device you’ll keep for a decade, the one your gym will accept, and the one that will grow with you as your climbing progresses. For more gear guides and reviews, check out our related climbing gear coverage and our field equipment guides for climbers who also explore geology.
Whatever device you choose, take a course, practice your technique, and always wear a helmet. The belay device is the most important safety tool in your climbing kit, but it’s only as good as the belayer using it. Climb safe, climb often, and trust your gear.